Fashion Winter Shawls plain colors stole women shawls winter collection

The wearing of shawls in early 19th-century France.

Shawl

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
The wearing of shawls in early 19th-century France.

A shawl (Persian: شال, Shāl, from Sanskrit: साडी śāṭī[1]) is a simple item of clothing, loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. It is usually a rectangular or square piece of cloth, that is often folded to make a triangle but can also be triangular in shape. Other shapes include oblong shawls.

  History

Kashmir Textiles-Shawls, Namdas, Gubbas

Kashmir, India's northern most state was the gateway into India. Kashmir was a pivotal point through which the wealth, knowledge, and products of ancient India passed to the world perhaps the most widely known woven textiles are the famed Kashmir shawls. The Kanikar, for instance, has intricately woven designs that are formalized imitations of Nature. The Chenar leaf (plane tree leaf), apple and cherry blossoms, the rose and tulip, the almond and pear, the nightingale, they are done in deep mellow tones of maroon, dark red, gold yellow and browns. Yet another type of Kashmir shawl is the Jamiavr, which is a brocaded woolen fabric sometimes in pure wool and sometimes with a little cotton added. The floral designing appears like heavy close embroidery-like weave in dull silk or soft pashmina wool, and usually comprises small or large flowers delicately sprayed and combined; some shawls have net-like patterns with floral ensemble motifs in them. Still another type of Kashmir shawl is the Dourukha, a woven shawl that is so done as to produce the same effect on both sides. This is a unique piece of craftsmanship, in which a multi-coloured pattern scheme is woven all over the surface, and after the shawl is completed, the Rafugar or expert embroiderer works the outlines of the motifs in darker shades to bring into relief the beauty of design. This attractive mode of craftsmanship not only produces a shawl, which is reversible because of the perfect workmanship on both sides, but it combines the crafts of both weave and embroidery.
The most expensive shawls, called Shatoosh, are made from the beard hairs of the wild Ibex and are so fine that a whole shawl can be pulled through a small finger ring.
The Persian device, naksha, like the Jacquard loom invented centuries later, enabled Indian weavers to create sinuous floral patterns and creeper designs in brocade to rival any painted by a brush. The Kashmir shawl that evolved from this expertise, in its heyday had greater fame than any other Indian textile. Always a luxury commodity, the intricate, tapestry-woven, fine wool shawl had become a fashionable wrap for the ladies of the English and French elite by the 18th century. The supply fell short of demand and manufacturers pressed to produce more, created convincing embroidered versions of the woven shawls that could be produced in half the time. As early as 1803 Kashmiri needlework production was established to increase and hasten output of these shawls, which had been imitated in England since 1784 and even in France. By 1870, the advent of the Jacquard loom in Europe destroyed the exclusivity of the original Kashmir shawl, which began to be produced in Paisley, England. Even the characteristic Kashmiri motif, the mango-shaped, began to be known simply as the paisley.
The paisley motif is so ubiquitous to Indian fabrics that it is hard to imagine that it is only about 250 years old. It evolved from l7th- century floral and tree-of-life designs that were created in expensive, tapestry-woven Mughal textiles. Early designs depicted single plants with large flowers and thin wavy stems, small leaves and roots. As the designs became denser over time, more flowers and leaves were compacted within the shape of the tree, or issuing from vases or a pair of leaves. By the late 18th century, the archetypal curved point at the top of an elliptical outline had evolved. The elaborate paisley created on Kashmir shawls became the vogue in Europe for over a century, and it was imitations of these shawls woven in factories at Paisley, Scotland, that gave it the name paisley still commonly used in the United States and Europe. In the late 18th and 19th centuries, the paisley became an important motif in a wide range of Indian textiles, perhaps because it was associated with the Mughal court. It also caught the attention of poorer and non-Muslim Indians because it resembles a mango. Rural Indians called an aam or mango, a symbol of fertility.



The first shawls, or "shals", were used in Assyrian times, later it went into wide spread in the Middle East. Shawls were also part of the traditional male costume in Kashmir, which was probably introduced via assimilation to Persian culture. They were woven in extremely fine woollen twill, some such as the Orenberg shawl, were even said to be so fine as to fit through a ring. They could be in one colour only, woven in different colours (called tilikar), ornately woven or embroidered (called ameli).

Hesquiat woman wrapped in a shaw

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Womens Winter Jackets

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History of Women's Coats

The Persians, based in what is now Iran, introduced two garments to the history of clothing: women's trousers and seamed fitted women's coats. Coat is one of the earliest women's clothing category words in English, attested as far back as the early Middle Ages.

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An early use of coat in English is coat of mail (chainmail), a tunic-like garment of metal rings, usually knee- or mid-calf length. These were very strong and could withstand snake bites.
The medieval and renaissance coat (generally spelled cote by costume historians) is a mid length, sleeved men's outer garment, fitted to the waist and buttoned up the front, with a full skirt: in its essentials, not unlike the modern coat.
By the eighteenth century, overcoats had begun to supplant capes and cloaks as outer wear, and by the mid-twentieth century the terms jacket and coat became confused for recent styles; the difference in use is still maintained for older garments.

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In the early nineteenth century, coats were divided into under-coats and overcoats. The term under-coat is now archaic but denoted the fact that the expression coat could be both the outermost layer for outdoor wear (overcoat) or the coat worn under that (under-coat). However, the term coat is increasingly beginning to denote just the overcoat rather than the under-coat. The older usage of the word coat can still be found in the expression "to wear a coat and tie", which does not mean that wearer has on an overcoat. Nor do the terms tailcoat or morning coat denote types of overcoat. Indeed, an overcoat may be worn over the top of a tailcoat. In tailoring circles, the tailor who makes all types of coats is called a coat maker. Similarly, in both British and American English, the term sports coat is used to denote a type of jacket not worn as outerwear (overcoat).

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The term jacket is a traditional term usually used to refer to a specific type of short under-coat. Typical modern jackets extend only to the upper thigh in length, whereas older coats such as tailcoats are usually of knee length. The modern jacket worn with a suit is traditionally called a lounge coat (or a lounge jacket) in British English and a sack coat in American English. The American English term is rarely used today. Traditionally, all men dressed in a coat and tie, although this has become gradually less widespread since around the 1960s. Because the basic pattern for the stroller (black jacket worn with striped trousers in British English) and dinner jacket (tuxedo in American English) are the same as lounge coats, tailors traditionally call both of these special types of jackets a coat.

Men's Winter Jackets

This section began as a result of my verifying some cloaks and mantelets for a collector and seller of museum quality antique (100 year old) English clothing for ebay auctions.
When faced with so much variety of style, it's understandable that the wide range of costume history terms that exist are often confusing to those seeking to describe vintage garments or make articles for a theatrical production. 
Regular visitors know this site deals only with female costume history, and in this section I'm going to look at simplifying ways of helping site visitors understand the differences between the wide range of terms used for female cover ups as either cloaks, coats or jackets and found especially in the 19th century in the Brutish Isles until 1970.  
Many of you will be familiar with more modern terms like poncho or gilet, but may not be able to find a single other person who knows what a mantelet with lappets is or the difference between a Chesterfield and an Ulster coat.  Once terms like these go out of general use, it takes a designer using past costume as inspiration to revive them and put them back into general vocabulary.
Quite similar terminology is often applied to them all, even though they may look quite different. However you only have to think that we might call a pair of trousers a variety of names from jeans, denims, levis, flares, bootlegs, pants, Oxford bags, joggers, cords, pedal pushers to leggings and you realise why it is so confusing to come across such unfamiliar terms as pelerine or mantelet today.

Afghan, anorak, Basque, Beatle jacket, blazer, bolero, bomber, Brandenburg, Burberry, British warm, battle jacket, blouson,canezou, cape, cloak, car coat, cardigan, carmago, casaque, capote, capuchin, caftan, capelets, cardinal, Chesterfield, cocoon, cote-hardie

dinner jacket, dolman, duster, duffle, donkey, djellabah, Eton, Eisenhower, fleece, frock coat, a fur, gilet, great coat, gabardine, greatcloak hacking, jacket, jerkin, jigger, a leather,

Mackintosh, maxi, mantles, mantelets mantilla, mantua, Manteau,    Nehru jacket, Norfolk, overcoat, opera cloak, opera hood

pelerine, parka, pelisse, pardessus, paletot, poncho, pareo, paletot sac, pashmina, Palmerston, puffa, raincoat, redingote, riding habit, reefer, raglan, Riding hood, spencer, swagger, swaggerback, surcote, surtout, swing, stole, a suede

trenchcoat, topper, talma, Visite, vest, waistcoat, windcheater, the Witzchoura, wrap,  wrapper Ulster Zouave jacket, Zhivago coat